TRAVEL : Vang Vieng: A Hedonistic Backpacker Town Reborn
As I tubed down the slow
river back into town, all around me were signs of a previous era: zip
lines and rope swings sitting unused, bars long ago boarded up, and
fading signs advertising cheap drinks. Vang Vieng’s riverbank was a
reminder of the town’s recent past, like a modern Gomorrah.
Now
there was barely a peep coming from the surrounding area. No blaring
music. No backpackers jumping into a too-shallow river. Just a few
kayakers, tubers, and friends enjoying the day’s final warmth from the
sun.
I came to Vang Vieng to see what had become of the place now that the infamous tubing had been shut down.
I found a destination reborn.
In
the late 1990s, backpackers discovered this little town in the middle
of Laos. Located by a beautiful, refreshing river and surrounded by
caves, lagoons, and mountains, it was the perfect mountainside chill-out
spot. It was cheap, drugs abounded, and anything went here.
Over
the years, the secret got out, and Vang Vieng became a symbol of
everything that was wrong with
backpacking: a town heaving with bars and
clubs catering to tourists who came to get as shitfaced as possible and
do drugs (all of which are illegal in Laos), flouted local customs, and
treated this place as their own playground. The surrounding landscape
and its activities were ignored in favor of the river, which became
lined with bars selling drugs, cheap drinks, and fun times.
Every year more and more people came, and every year backpackers acted foolishly and recklessly,
resulting in an average of 24 deaths annually from drinking, drugs, or
jumping into the shallow river. Along the river was a slide called “The
Death Slide” — it was a very literal name.
Finally, enough was enough, and in late 2012, local officials shut tubing down completely. There would be no more river parties.
With
the tubing gone, the backpackers went too. For months, Vang Vieng was a
ghost town. The economy suffered, and locals worried about the future.
About a year later, officials allowed tubing once again — but with more
stringent rules. Now, only three bars can be open at once, and there are
no more river swings, drugs, death slides, or dangerous activities.
And, with a midnight curfew now, the party doesn’t rage all night.
From
speaking to numerous locals, I learned that the number of backpackers
has been cut in half and replaced by a growing Korean and Chinese tour
group population, which doesn’t tube and spends more money. Now the
backpacker bars on the riverfront sit empty while the center of town
grows with boutique hotels and high-end restaurants catering to the new
waves of tourists.
“This is good. There are few people, but they spend more money,” one restaurant owner said.
“It’s
a lot better now that people aren’t dying. The old days were fun, but
this is safer,” a long-time Western bartender told me.
TRAVEL
No longer
is Vang Vieng the hedonistic jungle town it was once was. It is now a
calm center for outdoor adventure, jungle hikes, and lazy days cooling
off in the river. Though at first I worried the town would still be a
crazy backpacker place and I would hate it, I now found myself wishing I
had more time and only begrudgingly leaving.
Vang Vieng has reclaimed its place as one of the must-see places in Laos.
The
new Vang Vieng still retains some of the old ways: the famous Sakura
bar still pumps out music until midnight, gives away free drinks until 9
(seriously), and serves up whip-its (not cool); Gary’s famous Irish bar
is still around; and backpackers still come to drink and socialize.
And tubing does exist. But it’s a much more relaxed affair now.
With
so few people around, some days 50-60 people will casually float down
the river; other days only 20. It’s never the hundreds that used to tube
and visit the bars each and every day. Moreover, a lot of people now
skip the bars and parties, and just rent a tube for the sake of renting a
tube.
Locals, conscious of their city’s previous reputation, are happy with this new version of tubing.
Tubing’s
decline has allowed people to finally take part in other activities.
Now the focus can be on exploring the dozens of local caves and relaxing
in swimming holes. A lot of tour operators now offer kayaking tours,
zip-lining adventures, and full-day hikes around the mountains. The town
center bursts with Korean restaurants, boutique hotels, and even a
surprisingly good Mexican restaurant called Amigos.
That’s
not to say you won’t see lots of backpackers — they can’t be missed.
But they don’t come in the numbers they used to and tend to focus more
on those other outdoor activities. Others still come expecting the Sodom
of old but quickly find out that’s no longer around.
As I threw
my bags on the midday bus to Vientiane, I looked back and found I was
sad to leave. The new Vang Vieng is the city it always should have been.
It’s working hard to shed its old reputation and attract a
better-quality traveler. I was going to miss the fiery pink and orange
sunsets, the tree-covered limestone karsts jutting into the sky, the
mind-blowing aquamarine blue swimming holes, and the tranquil
countryside that seems to speak from every pore “Slow down and enjoy
yourself.”
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